Backup work on flashing guide.

doc/flashing.md

@@ -6,9 +6,9 @@
 
 * Allen key (2mm, 5/64") or torx (T8) screw driver
 * Soldering Iron
-* Perhaps some sticky tape
 * A serial to USB adapter (FTDI)
 * Some wires
+* Optional: sticky tape, hot glue
 
 ## Warning
 
@@ -34,32 +34,41 @@ Unbolt the 4 screws which were hidden under the rubber pads.
 Detach the bottom from the rest of the lamp, exposing the PCB. This might
 take a bit of force. Just pull it off bit by bit, until it pops loose.
 
-<img src="images/06_pull_off_the_bottom.jpg" width="200"><img src="images/07_bottom_removed.jpg" width="200"><img src="images/08_board_exposed.jpg" width="200">
+<img src="images/06_pull_off_the_bottom.jpg" width="200"><img src="images/07_bottom_removed.jpg" width="200">
+
+<img src="images/08_board_exposed.jpg" width="400">
 
 ## Solder the wires
 
 The wires will be connected to the debug pads that are shown in the following image.
 
-<img src="images/09_debug_pads_for_soldering.jpg " width="400">
+<img src="images/09_debug_pads_for_soldering.jpg" width="400">
 
 Many of the serial to USB adapter have some header pins to which you can
 connect the wires of a device. Therefore, it might be  useful to take some
 dupont wires, cut off one end, and solder the stripped end to the board.
-TODO
-
 
-<img src="images/10_stripped_dupont_wires.jpg " width="200">
+*Note: Whether to use male or female dupont wires depends on how you want to connect
+the serial adapter. In this example, I have used male wires, so I could plug them
+into a breadbord.*
 
+<img src="images/10_stripped_dupont_wires.jpg" width="200">
 
+Solder the wires to the `RX`, `TX`, `GND` and `GPIO0` debug pads.
 
-Solder the wires to the `RX`, `TX`, `GND` and `GPIO0` debug pads that are
-shown in the following photo. It is *not* required to solder a wire to the
-`3.3V` debug pad. This pad is not directly connected to the 3.3V Vin of the
+*Note: The board has a debug pad that exposes 3.3V. It is not required to
+solder a wire to this debug pad. For that reason, I have not marked this debug
+pad in the images. This pad is not directly connected to the 3.3V Vin of the
 ESP32 chip, making it a less than optimal candidate for powering the board
-during flashing. Instead, powering the lamp using its own power supply works
-best.
+during flashing. Instead, powering the lamp using its own power supply works best.*
+
+You could use some sticky tape to fixate the cables before soldering.
 
-You can use some sticky tape to fixate the cables before soldering.
+When you want to keep the wires attached after flashing the new firmware,
+then you might want to apply some hot glue to fixate the wires. This prevents
+the wires from breaking off, due to excessive movement.
+
+<img src="images/11_soldered_wires.jpg" width="200"><img src="images/12_optional_hot_glue.jpg" width="200">
 
 ## Connect the wires to your serial to USB adapter
 
@@ -108,6 +117,11 @@ find another way to attach `GPIO0` to ground. Some options:
   that you need. Remove the lead after flashing is done, otherwise the
   lamp won't boot in normal mode.
 
+In the images below, you can see the first solution, using a breadboard.
+
+<img src="images/
+13_connect_to_serial_to_usb_adapter.jpg" width="200"><img src="images/14_connect_to_serial_to_usb_adapter_close_up.jpg" width="200">
+
 ## Make a backup of the current firmware
 
 Backing up the firmware makes it possible to revert to the original firmware,